Showing posts with label how to sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to sewing. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Sew Easy part 12: Claire Skirt

Sew Easy Tutorial: Skirt with pick-ups



You can read the story behind this series and the first part here. Click here to read the secondthirdfourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth and tenth and eleventh edition of this series.

The tutorial for Claire Skirt is finally here. Wow! it took a really long time to finish.


Supplies ( for the skirt for a two year old)

2 coordinating fabrics - half yards each
Ric rac - 45 inches
Bias tape - 45 inches


Cutting and preparing the layers:





Cut two rectangles

Rectangle 1. length = 11.5 inches and width = 36 inches
Rectangle 2. length = 13 inches and width = 36 inches

from two coordinating fabrics.





Sew both rectangles into a tube by sewing raw ends together along the length ( Right Sides Together).


Assembling the skirt:

Please read the instructions carefully here. This skirt is assembled a little differently than other skirts so make sure you follow the instructions, or you will be cursing me and reaching out to your seam ripper very soon.



Place the inner layer tube inside the outer layer tube such that right side of outer layer touches the wrong side of inner layer. Align one raw edge of both layers. Sew a seam along the raw edge.



Turn out.



This is how mine looked after sewing.

Top-stitch as close to the edge as you can.

Sew another seam 1.5 inch below the top-stitching, so the elastic casing gets prepared. Leave a gap of one inch for inserting the elastic.

Vertical Ruffles on the outer layer:


Rotate the seams in the layer such that it lies in the center of back of skirt.
 Mark both the sides on the outer layer.


 Fold the whole tube into half along the width. Mark the center point on outer layer. ( As shown by the pen)


 Sew two parallel vertical seams along each of these 4 marks, stopping about 2 inch below the top edge. ( Total 8 seams)


 Pull the bobbin thread on these vertical seams to gather the outer layer. Adjust the gathers in a way that you like best. Now sew a zigzag stitch on all four gathers to make them permanent.


Finishing the hems: 

We used bias tape on the inner layer and ric-rac on the outer layer. But you could use any trim or method to finish the edges.
Bias Tape on inner layer
 


Use a 2.5 inches X 40 inches strip to make a bias tape. This is not really a bias tape since these strips are not cut on the bias, but for this project it won't matter because we are using it on a straight fabric.

Now use this bias tape to hem the inner layer of the skirt. The way I sew bias tape is line up the raw end of smaller side of bias tape with the raw end of skirt edge and sewing along the fold in the tape ( right sides together). Once this seam is done, I fold the tape to the other side and sew as close to the ( but not on the) top edge of the tape on the right side. This ensures that I catch the other fold of the tape on the wrong side.


Ric-rac on outer layer


Fold the outer layer about quarter inch inside and sew a seam.


Now sew a ric-rac over it on the outside.

Now fold the ric-rac inside and sew another seam. Voila! Pretty little ric-rac trim.


Inserting elastic in the skirt: 



Remember this space you had left while sewing the waistband. Lets insert the elastic here.



Using a safety pin, insert elastic here and go all the way round and back to the opening. Sew both ends of the elastic by overlapping them about half inch.

I use the stitch 1-14 on my machine which looks like a broken zigzag stitch to sew elastic, but if you don't have it zigzag would work as well. Just go over the elastic 3-4 times.




Claire skirt is ready for a little one!



PS: Spangler wrote in with a helpful comment - "Love this type of skirt... made one similar in finished look to this but using elastic thread to achieve the pull-ups... Check it out if you get a chance... http://thequickunpick.blogspot.com/2010/12/double-layer-twirly-skirt.html "

Elastic are a great way to achieve vertical gathers. Check out her tutorial and the cute skirt. 




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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Tutorial: Octoberize that Tee

Sewing Tutorial: Adding full sleeves to a Tshirt
This is a tutorial that I did a couple of weeks back at Ricochet and Away. I'm sharing it with you all here because I think its a good one for fall.Enjoy!

adding sleeves to a Tshirt




For this post I wanted to bring you something that would be useful to almost everyone. You know how we all are left with Tees at the end of the summer, they look and fit great but they are half sleeved, so they can't be used during the fall and winter. By the time summer rolls back again, they're too short already.
I have found myself with a pile of half sleeved clothes and wondering...Gosh!! these clothes are so nice, I wish I could use them somehow, until it hit me...adding sleeves shouldn't be that hard. After all, I do it all the time for the clothes I sew from scratch. Adding just the sleeves would be a lot more easier..and quicker.

So here's a tutorial on adding sleeves to your little one's ( or your own) tees and then adding just a little more detail to bind it all together. I'm calling it Octoberizing that Tee because a full sleeved version will be just right for the weather in the beginning of fall and also because the colors are just right for October.


Supplies ( 2 year old size)

1 half sleeved Tshirt
1 XL Tshirt in a contrasting color ( or any knit fabric will do - using T shirt was much quicker because I didn't have to hem)

Adding the full sleeves:

how to add long sleeves to a tshirt

Cut off the sleeves from the adult tee.

measuring the width of sleeve

Lay the small Tee straight and place the sleeves from the big tee next to the small Tee sleeves. Make sure that both the Tee sleeves and the new sleeves make a straight line and overlap about half inch. Now measure from the shoulders of little Tee to the hem of sleeves of big Tee, this is how long your final sleeve will be. Compare it with the sleeve length needed for your child.If this is too big, increase the overlap to reduce the length. If it is too small you have two options - 1 You can pick open the hem of sleeves, this will give you one extra inch. you could do rolled hems on the sleeves later.
Another option is to use T-shirt body, or a knit fabric instead of sleeves. This is not very complicated either. Just fold a knit fabric along the width and use it the same way I'm showing you using the existing sleeves. You just have to hem these sleeves...that's all.

Once you have determined the correct length you have to determine the width. What we want to do is make an addition to the sleeve that is as wide as the existing sleeve's end in and then it tapers off following natural shape of arm.
So you will measure the width using the hem of existing sleeve and add 1 inch to it for sewing margins.
cutting out the sleeve

Do the same for the other sleeve.

drafting a full sleeve from a half sleeve
Now fold each sleeve in half along the width ( right sides together) and sew a seam on the side using up sewing margins. Repeat for the other sleeve.

sewing up the sleeve

Turn this tube of sleeve inside out. Now line it up with the real sleeve as shown above. Now gently slide the wider end of new sleeve into the existing sleeve. Straighten both the sleeves using your hand. Make sure the new sleeve is fitting the old sleeve evenly. Use hand basting or pins to hold it in place.

attaching the full sleeve to half sleeve
Sew a seam along the joint of the new and old sleeves to fix it in place.
Note: It is easier to go from the neckline to sew this seam, at least it was for me.
Repeat for the other sleeve.

Ta da! Your tee has full sleeves now...smile!



Adding contrasting stripes at the front.


sewing contrast stripes to the front

Cut two rectangles from the contrasting knit of width equal to the width of Tee and length = 5 inches. Place them one over the other and then onto the Tee at a position you like.

sewing contrasting stripes
Pin or hand-baste these to make sure they stay in their place.

sewing chenille stripes
Now sew parallel lines along the hand-basting. Mine are about 5/8 inch apart. You can use your sewing machine foot as a guide to get evenly spaces lines.

how to sew stripes on a tshirt

Once you're done sewing, its time to cut. Cut between the seams, Making sure you're cutting only the extra layers and not the Tshirt itself. I used a small scissor to do this. Try to stay in the center between two seams but you don't have to be precise. We are taking advantage of the fact that knits don't fray. So we can leave the cut edges raw.

adding stripes to a Tshirt




Congratulations! You have successfully Octoberized your Tee. Right now the orange is looking like a color-block at the front, but these knit strips will curl up in the wash.
octoberize a Tshirt


So they look more like ruffled stripes of orange and white. For more pizazz you could use more layers, and also graded color layers. So when you cut, you will see colors of different intensity. I haven't done that but I think it would look cool.


PS: Here's a very helpful comment from Amanda:

"I've been doing this with my son's shirts for a couple of years. Since toddler/preschooler shirts are rather small, it's hard to sew the fabric on as a tube. I open out the underarm seam on the t-shirt so I can sew on the new sleeve as a flat piece of fabric, then turn inside out and resew the underarm seam all the way to the cuff. I cut the arm extensions from too-small knit pants sometimes-- they often already have a ribbed cuff."


Great comment Amanda! I'm sure it will be helpful to many readers. I'll also try it this way.